If you are anything like me you loved Colombia so much you had to renew your visa after thirty days. I chose to cross the boarder with Ecuador and make a bit of a vacation out of it. And fortunately as always there is climbing. I began by taking the bus from Pasto to Quito, the capital of Ecuador.
Quito, the highest capital city on earth has a beautiful colonial side located in the old town and a more bumping nightlife to be found just outside. Located centrally, it is easy to get to the beach, mountains, or Amazon with just one bus!
There is plenty to see and to do in Quito. Visit the many churches and city square and visit the local market to get a full smash meal for just 2.50$. Oh yeah, they use USD in Ecuador which is nice and has an interesting story to it that can be learned by taking the free walking tour that’s leaves from the Community Hostel.
In addition to a cool cultural city Quito has quick access to some fun climbing spots. I met up with a guy from Mountain Project and we headed out to Sigsipamba.
Sigsipamba has a hand full of routes, most of them hard because they are overhung. Not only will you get nice and strong climbing here but it is shielded from the rain which was a god send because during my time in Quito it rained everyday. Sigsipamba is far from the only crag close to Quito but sadly it was the only one I had a chance to visit and I will hopefully adding the routes to MTN Project soon.
If you have been climbing in Colombia chances are you will eventually head south to visit Pasto (post coming soon). On the way to Pasto you will have the opportunity to visit the pristine colonial city of Popayan.
Popayan is know as “The White City” because of its white buildings. Why paint them white? It all has to do with an insect infestation from the colonial era which devastated the towns folk. These insects would bury themselves into the skin of their host and cause incredible itching so much so that the infected persons would use the cities coarse stone walls to scratch the incredible itch. Soon the town realized that they could kill the bugs with a chemical derived from chalk and painted all the buildings with it. Though the insects and chalk are no longer present the traditional white color for buildings remains.
Photo: itching corner
There are many great activities to do on an off day in this quaint town. I recommend heading to National Park Purace or head to the thermals 30 minutes out of town and bike downhill on your way back.
Additionally, I recommend taking the free walking tour run by students which leaves from the main square at 10am. They guides are kind, knowledgeable, and funny. During the tour we even found about a free piano concert in the main theater that lead to a night of high class culture, which was refreshing after 9 months of a dirtbag backpacker lifestyle.
Popayan is a town worth stopping in for any traveler in Colombia. Whether it be a day or two or even a week this town will leave you wanting more colonial city exposure.
Los Nevados is a gigantic park located West of Bogota and is accesible from Salento, Manizales, and a few other small towns. It is a park of amazing natural beauty and kind hearted farmers.
My journey begins in Salento where I met up with my buddy Kurt who I used to volunteer guide with in Guatemala. Salento is a touristy cozy town located next to the park that boasts plenty of accomodating hostels. While relaxing in Salento make sure to go for a hike to the surrounding rivers, eat some of the deliciously cheap trout (trucha), and kick back with a beer at the main square. While Salento is deserving of a post all its own the true meat of Salento comes from the park Los Nevados.
The park is unique in my experience of Colombia because it is one of the few parks where no guide is needed (though they are very helpful). Kurt and I began our day early and left for Cocora Valley (the entrance to the park) from the main square at 8am. Transport was on the back of a jeep and cost about 3,000 COP (1$). There is a standard loop that many tourists do from the hummingbird area to the palm trees. Kurt and I opted for a more intense route.
We began by visiting the iconic palm trees first where we then proceeded to cross a few rivers and climb for what seemed like forever to Finca Primavera. It took us 7 hours to arrive at the finca where we were greated with amazing home cooked food and a cozy bed. The next day we explored the incredible vistas and waterfalls and ran into a guide at Finca La Playa who said he could guide us up the Tolima Glaciar.
Usually I am not one for guides but this was well worth the money because much of the route we made was done in the middle of the night. We left to scale Tolima at 1am in total darkness and rain. Tolima is the tallest volcano in the park at 5215m (around 17,000ft). After scrambling up light snow and a rock section we reached the Tolima glaciar where we put on our crampons, rope, and ice axes. The rain was clearing and the sun rising. We had an incredible view from the top and even were able to see one of the other volcanos in the park erupting. The weather window was perfect as it started to rain once we began our decent.
The downclimb was great because we could finally see the trail we had been hiking the entire time. We even past a point of great interest where we could see the left over tail from a plane that had crashed years ago. We returned to Finca La Playa around noon and took a nap and awoke just in time for dinner.
Our original plan was to hike the following day to Termales Cañon, camp, then hike out at Ibague the day after. However, it was raining so hard we decided to head back to salento. If you would like a detailed map for the trail all the way to Ibague I recommend this website. The trail down was absolutely soping wet and was more like skiing than hiking. The river was running so high that we used some folks passing buy on horse to help us get accross. All in all Los Nevados is an incredible park that we only scratched the surface of, as there are many hikes and trails in the area and one can spend weeks exploring these areas. If you would like to see a video of the adventure click here.
Video of Los Nevados and Tolima glaciar summit. Written post soon to follow.
When asked to imagine the typical countryside of Colombia few would picture a vast and brutal desert similar to that of the Australian Outback. La Guajira is a department (state) of Colombia located on the caribean coast that boasts salt, stars, and rough roads that will leave travelers exausted yet enamoured in the adventure that is La Guajira.
La Guajira has two main destinations, Cabo De La Vela and Puntos Galinas and a trip to both is required to fully enjoy this odity of a desert. First you must take a collectivo out toe Uribe which is the Wayuu nation Capital more or less. The Wayuu are the local indigenous group who live like modern Colombians in Uribe and in a more traditional livelihood further out in the desert. Once arriving in Uribe you need to ask around for a 4×4 transport because the roads are really rough. I was lucked enough to get a guy by the name of Alfonso who drove like a bat out of hell with a laugh as loud as his engine.
The first stop in the trip is in Cabo De La Vela, a rural town with little to do other than swim and kite surf which was also the landing site of the first explorers to South America . Amenities are basic; there exists little power and sleeping in a hammock under the stars will likely be your accommodation for the night. Go for a swim, soak up the sun and go for a hike in the neighboring hills.
While the views are pleasant it is a stark contrast to the rest of Colombia. The poverty of the Wayuu is extreme and saddening and many struggle with Spanish and live in shanty huts. People will likely beg for water/food and money and in all honesty you really should give them something. What is a bee 1,000 COP and some water to someone who is on vacation… anyway… the next will be in Puntos Gallinas the most northern part of South America.
After an early morning drive and a boat ride you will arrive in Puntos Gallinas in enough time to check out where the sand dunes meet the ocean. Truly the nicest and most dramatic beach I have ever seen. Relax in a hammock durrning the night and observe the Milky Way floating above your head. Speaking of the Milky Way Alfonso was kind enough to share a bit of a silly story about the Wayuu. The Wayuu nation is a part of Venuzela and Colombia and is the reason you will likely only drink Venezuelan beer there. The close connection memes that smuggling is easy and likely common. When I think smuggling I think guns and drugs however, Alfonso surprised me when he said it was more common to smuggle commercial goods like MilkyWay candy bars and other food items.
After returning the next day to Uribe with only one car fire and minor bruises from rally car driving we made our way back to Riohacha, ending our trip. All in all a trip out the desert is one you won’t forget so if you have time give it a go
No music just views of some of the highlights from Nicaragua and Colombia. Climbing videos will come in the future.
The American west isn’t the only place in the world where you can find sandy red rocks to climb. Colombia is also home to canyons and deserts that may surprise you with their incredible beauty and extreme landscape. The area that is the most impressive is that of Chicamoca Canyon; very much the Grand Canyon of Colombia.
Anyone can enjoy the dramatic cliff faces and sandy red stone but the thing that keeps climbers happy are the rocks of La Mojarra. Located only and hour from Bucaramanga these cliffs are a must if you are keen to climb in Colombia. Personally I was surprised such a place existed in Colombia especially one with 300+ well developed sport routes.
One of the nicest things about La Mojarra is how easy it is to link up with other climbers. Personally I have been traveling without a rope or draws so I am dependent on meeting other climbs which can often be difficult when traveling in a foreign country but is easy at the climbing hostel Refugio Roca located at the top of the crag. This hostel has incredible accommodation situated on top of the Mojarra cliffs. After linking up with climbers and spending the day on the wall I would return each night to cook and hang out in the social space boasting hammocks and a warm atmosphere. If you get the chance do not miss this climbing area. It is more than worth a week or two of time.
After a bit of work Colombia now has the most routes listed in South America on Mountain Project. That being said, it is only about 150 routes… out of THOUSANDS. This post is to celebrate the growing number of routes in the Colombia section and also to ask for some help. The info I have been adding is still VERY basic. If anyone who is reading this has photos, FA info, or corrections to the area please add them! I will continue to add more hoping I get most of the information correct but location and protection info is not enough. Especially without pictures. The next time you are placing gear in Suesca or taking huge falls in La Mojarra think of the Proj and make a contribution or two!
Chances are if you are on a climbing trip in Colombia you are starting in the trady train tracks of Suesca and making your way north to the dramatic red stone of La Monjarra. In between the two areas is a charming colonial city by the name of Villa De Leyva that is perfect for rest day hiking, biking, and eating! Though the town is quite touristy it has gathered its popularity for good reason. The cobblestone streets and boutique eateries are cozy and fairly priced while boasting beautiful nature just outside the town square.
I stayed at Renacer just outside the main town which provided plenty of information on hiking and exploration in the area. There is a great mirador hike directly behind the hostel but I recommend visiting the Angel Step if you really want to see something spectacular. First hop on a bus to Santa Sophie and then ask for the bus to the Angel Step. The trip should not take long. The entrance can be a bit confusing if you speak limited Spanish as the entrance of covered in signs that say “no entry” and “private property”. Simply pass through the fence and find a farmer and pay the 1$ entrance fee and be on your way. Follow the trail on a narrow ridge that gives you a fun sense of exposure till what looks like the end then descend on your left and have lunch on top of a massive waterfall! The trip is short but if you go 500 meters down the dirt road where you entered you can hike to another waterfall called Hayal which is also stunning.
After your waterfall tour return to Villa De Leyva for a world class coffee and a fancy dinner before continuing north to La Mojarra.
Once a novel pastime; slacklining is now a full fledged sport in its own right. Requiring immense amounts of focus and balance it is a sport that can benefit anyone. If you are reading this chances are you already know this information and are looking for a way to test your skills. At the top of the Suesca rocks there are 3 stations to set up a highline. From the entrance of Suesca, rather than heading left along the tracks, head straight up the hill where you will find bolts for a highline set up. If you are looking for a fun way to spend a rest day simply look up from the rocks and see if any highliners are at work or rig one yourself if you have the tools!