My last video of hiking in Colombia. In the video you will see Macoa and a few spots around Bogota.
Last weekend I was looking for the easiest way to get to the La Calera boulders in hopes that I could do some pebble wrestling. During my search I encountered some videos of people boulder in a place called Las Moyas located behind Bogota with trail access from Rosales.
The hike was steep and maybe not the best approach for people trying to get a quick bouldering session in but from what I could tell there is a much easier approach from the La Calera side. I was excpecting there to be other boulders up there but when I arrived there was nobody. I asked the police if it was ok if I climbed the rocks and used chalk and they said it was all good and enjoyed watching me boulder for an hour or so.
Despite having seen videos of people climbing in Las Moyas I saw no sign of bouldering routes, chalk or otherwise. Which is strange because with a little bit of work this could be a fun little bouldering spot as the holds are great allowing for countless V0-V3 opportunities. That being said the holds need to be cleaned a bit but with time and work it could be something special. I worked a couple of routes all with sit starts with two of them being reasonably fun. I will upload the boulder problems to MTN Project sooner than later. Until then here are some fotos of the bounding possibilities.
Additionally information about hiking in he area can be found at the Amigos Del Montaña website
I finally snapped. The endless pressure and bubbling anxiety from my CELTA course had reached its peak. It was time to climb.
My friend Sergio invited me to climb in a small pueblo about two hours out from Bogota and promised big overhangs, guacas (jugs), and hard as hell climbs. He delivered on all three.
Machete is the Spinal Tap of climbing crags in Colombia. Where Spinal Tap’s amps go to 11 Macheta starts there. There are more than 50 routes in the zone where the lowest grade I saw was a 10c that was as hard as an 11a. In Macheta even the 10’s are 11’s. The rock is steap and overhung and perfect for people who want to warm up on a 12 and project 13’s. AKA not for people like me. That being said if you are a climber looking to push grade this is the place for you.
At the bottom of the crag is a small hostel where you can get a cheap bed and you might even be fed some delicious sancocho soup after a long hard day. If you have the time to stop by and are a reasonably strong climbing you will have a blast on the rock and with the locals!
I will update the website soon with info on getting there and a list of routes. Till then, choa.
I have spent 10 months with my crimson colored backpackbuddy and the love is as strong as ever. I purchased my Farpoint for my trip from Mexico to Colombia because of its ability to be stored as carry on and because of my experience with other Osprey bags. Little did I know I got far more than what I paid for.
The Farpoint is a 40 liter bag which allows you to stow it as carry on most flights. The material is strong, zippers tough and have holes to allow owners to lock pockets with padlocks when you arrive at the hostel or leave the bag at the beach. It’s been 10 months now and I feel that I can carry more than most people do with their 60liter bags. People are always amazed the Farpoint has brought me from Mexico to Colombia. The bag has the best of both worlds as it can be opened like a suitcase making access to cloths and toiletries easy unlike top loaded bags. As you can see from the featured image I was able to fit a harness, 2 pairs of climbing shoes, chacos, pants, puffy, 3 pairs of shorts, jacket, shirts, journal, and other essentials no problems. I can not stress how strong this bag is. It survived countless chicken bus rides, 3 months of use while I was a hiking and climbing guide in Guatemala, endless rain and motorcycle rides in Colombia and even a visit to a glacier. In all this time there are only very small tears in the bag but it has not compromised the integrity yet.
When I see packpakers lugging around 80liter bags filled with garbage they never use I feel grateful that I have such a tiny bag. It forces you to only take the essentials with you (though I have still managed to fit plenty of gifts for friends inside). Like I said, 40liters is more than enough for the typical backpacker. Additionally the bag is small and makes you look less like a tourist trudging through town with a bag on your back bigger than you are and a bag on your front that screams “please rob me”.
Though the shoulder straps can be a bit uncomfortable if you walk with it for multiple day camping trips (which the bag is NOT designed for but I did anyway while guiding) this is the best bag I have ever owned and can’t recommend it enough.
The very first area I added to Mountain Project was an area just outside of Bogota called Zipa. At the time I added the location I was unfortunately unable to add the climbs and photos. Recently however, I had a shot at redemption with a return to the wonderfully tranquil and overhanging jug zone that is Zipa. Covered in vegitation that looks like mother natures beard Zipa has no shortage of great climbs. Additionally, I was happy to see that other people (Federico Echevery) have started adding climbs and I am no longer alone in the quest to add routes to this local. If you are looking to do some climbing I highly recommend the area but more than anything I am happy to see that other people are adding climbs making MTN Project of use in Colombia!
To many Macoa exists soley as a small blurb towards the end of their Lonely Planet Colombia guide. Though it occupys a small space in the guide books Macoa has a big heart that is more than worth your time should you choose to visit Colombia. Earlier this year Macoa suffered a catostrophic mud slide that killed more than 300 people. This tragedy unfortunately has repelled tourists in a time where tourism stands to benefit a community in need most. One can see from bridges the destruction wrot by the mighty mudslide. Cloths and parts of houses still sit along the rivers shore. A grim reminder of the power of mother nature. Many are saying the intense rains that triggered the mudslide are further proof of climate changes ability to intensify natural disasters. I am inclined to agree with this point of view and there are even some who say that local mining in the area has weekend the soil leading to the slide. That however, I will leave to real journalists.
Despite the horror of such a disaster life goes on. People are happy and welcoming and the nature is as beautiful as ever. I stayed at Hostel Dantayaco just outside of town next to El Fin Del Mundo. For starters the hostel was beautiful, hospitable, and attracted a good group of people. Both staff and guests were exceedling kind and you will have a great day adventuring or spending the day chilling in hammocks. Many tourists of all types visit the area. There are adventurers, bird watchers, and spiritualists all of which will expose you to knew ideas and a great time. Personally, my favorite part was venturing into El Fin Del Mundo. El Fin Del Mundo will cost you only 3,000 pesos to enter and will lead you to 3 separate waterfalls where you can cliff jump and swim to your jungle hearts content. To top it all off is the final waterfall which is incredibly high and has a spectacular view of the city of Macoa. Fin Del Mundo is far from the only hike in the area but was certainly the most memorable for me.
Dont skip Macoa. You wont regret it.
A video of walking through Colombia and Ecuador. I will hopefully getting some climbing done next week!
If you have been climbing in Colombia chances are you will eventually head south to visit Pasto (post coming soon). On the way to Pasto you will have the opportunity to visit the pristine colonial city of Popayan.
Popayan is know as “The White City” because of its white buildings. Why paint them white? It all has to do with an insect infestation from the colonial era which devastated the towns folk. These insects would bury themselves into the skin of their host and cause incredible itching so much so that the infected persons would use the cities coarse stone walls to scratch the incredible itch. Soon the town realized that they could kill the bugs with a chemical derived from chalk and painted all the buildings with it. Though the insects and chalk are no longer present the traditional white color for buildings remains.
Photo: itching corner
There are many great activities to do on an off day in this quaint town. I recommend heading to National Park Purace or head to the thermals 30 minutes out of town and bike downhill on your way back.
Additionally, I recommend taking the free walking tour run by students which leaves from the main square at 10am. They guides are kind, knowledgeable, and funny. During the tour we even found about a free piano concert in the main theater that lead to a night of high class culture, which was refreshing after 9 months of a dirtbag backpacker lifestyle.
Popayan is a town worth stopping in for any traveler in Colombia. Whether it be a day or two or even a week this town will leave you wanting more colonial city exposure.
Los Nevados is a gigantic park located West of Bogota and is accesible from Salento, Manizales, and a few other small towns. It is a park of amazing natural beauty and kind hearted farmers.
My journey begins in Salento where I met up with my buddy Kurt who I used to volunteer guide with in Guatemala. Salento is a touristy cozy town located next to the park that boasts plenty of accomodating hostels. While relaxing in Salento make sure to go for a hike to the surrounding rivers, eat some of the deliciously cheap trout (trucha), and kick back with a beer at the main square. While Salento is deserving of a post all its own the true meat of Salento comes from the park Los Nevados.
The park is unique in my experience of Colombia because it is one of the few parks where no guide is needed (though they are very helpful). Kurt and I began our day early and left for Cocora Valley (the entrance to the park) from the main square at 8am. Transport was on the back of a jeep and cost about 3,000 COP (1$). There is a standard loop that many tourists do from the hummingbird area to the palm trees. Kurt and I opted for a more intense route.
We began by visiting the iconic palm trees first where we then proceeded to cross a few rivers and climb for what seemed like forever to Finca Primavera. It took us 7 hours to arrive at the finca where we were greated with amazing home cooked food and a cozy bed. The next day we explored the incredible vistas and waterfalls and ran into a guide at Finca La Playa who said he could guide us up the Tolima Glaciar.
Usually I am not one for guides but this was well worth the money because much of the route we made was done in the middle of the night. We left to scale Tolima at 1am in total darkness and rain. Tolima is the tallest volcano in the park at 5215m (around 17,000ft). After scrambling up light snow and a rock section we reached the Tolima glaciar where we put on our crampons, rope, and ice axes. The rain was clearing and the sun rising. We had an incredible view from the top and even were able to see one of the other volcanos in the park erupting. The weather window was perfect as it started to rain once we began our decent.
The downclimb was great because we could finally see the trail we had been hiking the entire time. We even past a point of great interest where we could see the left over tail from a plane that had crashed years ago. We returned to Finca La Playa around noon and took a nap and awoke just in time for dinner.
Our original plan was to hike the following day to Termales Cañon, camp, then hike out at Ibague the day after. However, it was raining so hard we decided to head back to salento. If you would like a detailed map for the trail all the way to Ibague I recommend this website. The trail down was absolutely soping wet and was more like skiing than hiking. The river was running so high that we used some folks passing buy on horse to help us get accross. All in all Los Nevados is an incredible park that we only scratched the surface of, as there are many hikes and trails in the area and one can spend weeks exploring these areas. If you would like to see a video of the adventure click here.